Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Roll – by Ian McCluskey

Sunday, May 16th, 2010

ROLL
Morgan Strub (1973-2010)

“The only people for me are the mad ones, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn, like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars and in the middle you see the blue centerlight pop and everybody goes “Awww!”
–Jack Kerouac, On The Road

Tall and lanky, wearing blue jeans loose from wear, a white t-shirt, close-cropped hair and wire-rim glasses, Morgan looked like a cross between Jack Kerouac and a holy wayfaring monk. At least to me. He wasn’t religious, but he had that wildman energy that comes from the open West, the wisdom that comes from hard traveling, and the poetry that comes from beat coffeehouses, all mixed together. A romantic, gazing at stars above the Arizona desert; a realist, driven by details, staying up all night hunched over a computer, coding. He taught himself HTML, then PHP. “Ahh, PHP,” he said to me, a couple weeks before his death, “that’s possibility.” He had a deep voice—not a booming one, like most men with deep voices, but soft and soothing, like a campfire, when it turns inward to glowing coals.

At 16, Morgan took off from home. He hitchhiked from Phoenix and headed to New Mexico. It started from being a rebellious teen, Morgan explained, but eventually “The Road,” both the romantic idea of it and the brutal reality of it, had taken hold. The Road would call him back again, and again.

In the Summer of 2001, Morgan set out to make “a big, crazy circle” around the US, stopping to find work, visit friends and hang with homeless and other pedestrians. He arrived in New York City two days after 9-11. The next summer, age 29, Morgan hitched 2,500 miles from Austin to Portland. It was in the drizzly Portland winter that we met. I was also 29 and told him I’d been recently working at the local PBS station, but wanted to start a non-profit devoted to making documentaries and teaching others to tell their story. He listened to my excited ramblings, nodding, and punctuating the ideas with, “yeah,” and “exactly.” And then he told me his dream, to make a website that connected the rag-tag sub-culture of hitchhikers.

He said that any hitcher could go to a public library and get online, but that there was no central spot for them to connect. A place to leave a message, or get some advice, maybe post a story or some photos taken during a trip. He told me that he’d recently discovered a programming system called a “portal” which might allow him to accomplish this vision and that he’d launched a site the year before called “Digihitch.” [http://digihitch.com]

He said, since he was paying for server space already, he’d share a small corner of it, like a friend offers up a couch to crash. Over that spring, with the help of Morgan and a small group of volunteers, we launched a website for NW Documentary, filed for 501c3 status, and moved into the sixth-floor of the New Market Theater building. The loft office had once held a Dot-Com start-up. The place was torn up, gutted, wires ripped from walls. We spent weeks cleaning, vacuuming, and painting. Morgan, the tallest, perched on precarious wooden ladders. Sometimes, when I’m sitting at my desk, I look up at the giant heating ducts, and remember Morgan, meticulously dabbing the paint, cutting a clean line around the trim.

As easily as Morgan had come into our lives, he left. “I gotta roll,” he said. Portland’s summer had been lovely, but the desert native just wasn’t up for another rainy winter. It would be two years later, in 2005, when I saw him again. I’d flown down to Tucson to the Center for Creative Photography for a new film I was making called, “Eloquent Nude.” Morgan had settled down in his hometown of Phoenix and met the love of his life, Kasha. He said he’d come join us in Tucson. Of course, he hitched.

He was up for doing anything to help, and I asked him to do some photocopying. He spent two entire days standing beside a Xerox machine, diligently copying, page by page, Charis Wilson’s Guggenheim Journal. In the evenings, we drove out to the edge of the city, to the desert, where I shot the orange Sonoran sunset and we drank luke-warm beers and talked about life. After my week in Arizona was done, I dropped Morgan off at a truckstop at the edge of town. “This is good,” he said, and climbed out of the rental car with his backpack. I watched him wander off along the wayside. Goodbyes are hard.

I’d started my next film project last summer when Morgan called. He’d been diagnosed with Stage IV Neuroblastoma, a cancer, he explained, that was more common in children, but rare in adults. Cancer is an unkind battle, but all the way to the end, Morgan lived with grace, dignity, and humor. He’d gotten a guinea pig that he named “Sweet pea” and he nicknamed his tumor “Buster.” I was able to spend a week with Morgan, at his bedside, recording some of his stories.

At the end of life, one looks for summation. All told, he’d logged over 30,000 miles hitchhiking throughout the United States and Canada. Digihitch had 18,000 members, who had posted some 2,400 stories, and engaged in more than 10,000 discussion threads. But there is no counter for the number of conversations, or campfires, and friendships struck along the road.

“Hitchhiking is a way to change things up in life, to meet new people, see amazing places and get creative in resolving issues that may arise,” he’d written on Digihitch.

“Morgan was all about gathering people together to share life,” said his sister, Melissa. “He welcomed all with their differences and facilitated a safe place to find some commonality.”

“Hitchhiking,” said Morgan, “teaches you that time is relative, and that where you go next often depends on where you’re coming from. Roll with things. Be open to the people, places and new experiences along the way. Don’t worry. Laugh, smile, sing. It will all work out, once you stop fighting yourself. Let the road roll in your soul.”

He loved that word. Roll. Roll with things. Roll.

Those are the last words on his online bio he wrote for himself on Digihitch. A fitting epitaph, my friend.

Ian McCluskey
NW Documentary
115 SW Ash St, 620
Portland, OR 97204

nwdocumentary.org
eloquentnude.org

twenty-10 and new beginnings

Saturday, January 9th, 2010

Happy New Year.  Out with the old.  In with the new…

I was catching up with old friends tonight and, of course, “What did you do on New Year’s Eve?” inevitably, predictably came up.  Reflecting, the tone this NYE seemed less decadent than in years past.  In New York’s Times Square, the prior lighted ball was retired in favor of a much lower energy “green” ball.  It was toned down.  Here in Austin, a lot of people were sick- myself included.  So, naturally, many people here toned it down.  People across the nation that I have talked to admitted, unabashedly, to being asleep when Father Time gave up the ghost.  It seems to me that there was a general ho-humness around this particular calendar roll.  Did you have a similar experience?

2009 took a toll on us, I think.  Prior years played out like one big, elongated NYE bash where revelers partied like there would be no tomorrow.  Few worried what the tab had run up to because it wasn’t real money- it was credit.  Then the hangover came.  2009.  Like every dutiful hangover, it reminded us why we can’t act that way, do those things, be “that guy,” etc.  We laid around at the end of 2009 re-evaluating priorities, making resolutions and vowing to change behaviors.  Maybe the toned down start of 2010 wasn’t just one night, but an indication of the flow of the coming decade.  And I say hooray.

In these pages we’ve talked a lot about re-evaluating priorities.  It’s times like these that we remember to live.  And love.  We learn that every day can be a fresh start.  Even every moment or as often as you can change a thought process or behavior for the better.  While these new beginnings might not always be the start of something everlasting- they are a better way to spend that day or that moment.  The effort and the hope is honorable.  The strength to live well is teachable.  The tenacity and perseverance is contagious.

Morgan flies to Houston on Monday to meet with the specialists at MD ANDERSON www.mdanderson.org.  His amazing wife, Kasha, will be with him as well as Melissa and myself.  Morgan’s level of effort and strength that this journey displays is awesome.  Nothing about making this trip is easy.  It’s a lot of travel.  But not the kind Morgan is famous for.  It’s an act of bravery and tenacity, and I admire it greatly.  2010 promises the hope of a new year, new treatment, new beginnings.

Please think of us this week as we search for answers as difficult as the questions themselves. 

-Mark

CA Road Trip II: Huntington Beach + Med Update

Friday, August 7th, 2009

I’m looking out at the surf and sand of Huntington Beach, not more than 1000 feet away, as I write this. It was more than a stroke of luck that allowed Kasha and I to be here at the Shorebreak Hotel with such a magnificent view. I googled up a promo code to get a sizable discount off the room price when placing the reservation. When we arrived late this afternoon it appeared they’d given us the wrong room. There was no disability access (shower rails, seat, etc). We informed staff and they quickly remedied this by upgrading us to a disability-friendly room with a king bed and waterfront view.

We’re heading downstairs in just a few to take a stroll by the beach, then dinner at Wahoo’s (fish tacos, we love ‘em). The weather is ideal.  Breezy, in the high 60s. The sun is beginning to set. I’ve got to wrap this up!

Talked to Dr. Kukunoor, one of my oncologists, by cellphone 1/2 hour ago. He tells me yesterday’s MRI scan results came back and there’s yet another tumor along my spine that’s coming close to creating spinal cord compression. It’s located between my shoulder blades. There’s no imminent danger of paralysis, but all cases like this have to be taken seriously. He recommends that when I return to Phoenix on Monday I continue with radiation therapy, effectively postponing chemotherapy (yay!).

I feel good, and it’s a relief to know I can enjoy the weekend without worrying about chemo or some dire situation to return to Monday. Kasha and I are so grateful and glad to be here. Really looking forward to seeing family tomorrow. I brought along some family history research for them to browse through, too. Also, can’t wait to see my friend Dan on Sunday and his baby girl, Addy.

Good times, now out the door we go!

California Road Trip: Friday Morning Takeoff

Friday, August 7th, 2009
How to contact me this weekend
If you know my cellphone number, give it a call anytime. You can also find it if you are logged into this blog (right below search box) or you’re a Facebook friend. Go to my Facebook profile and look in my “Info” tab.

I’ll also be checking email. I hate to reveal my main address publicly, so if you don’t know it you can send a message to me via this feedback form on digihitch.com and it will get to me.

It’s just before 6am and I’m sitting up in my home hospital bed in the living room writing this. In an hour Kasha and I will be on the road, driving to Los Angeles for a weekend by the beach among family and friends.

It’s surprising, all the little precautions I need to take nowadays for a vacation. But considering what’s growing inside me, and all the medications and their little side effects– and the catheter hanging off me– I guess it’s a gift that I can go at all in my condition and not break the bank. My California family is helping make it possible, and I’m so grateful! This is my first trip away from Phoenix all summer; my first reprieve from the desert heat and daily health grind since learning I had cancer.

So how am I traveling? In medi-style, I call it. My sister loaned us her mini-van for the trip, so we have a Honda Odyssey with all the back seats removed. I’ll have my hospital mattress laid down on the floor, with pillows and comforters tucked in every cranny. A large ice chest contains tons of juice, fruit and veggies for an easy grab, and I’ve got both a heating pad and ice pack for whatever ache ails me. (Not to mention some strong drugs for “breakthrough pain,” as it’s called.)

I have a catheter, meaning that all my urine drains into a bag, so this is emptied every several hours. Also, when my condition worsened a bit last month due to the spinal cord compression, I lost feeling to my buttocks and upper thighs. This has caused me to have to wear a diaper. (Humiliating? Telling you now, a little bit, but I’ve mostly gotten over it on my end here.) I don’t have too many “accidents,” other than a serious amount of urine leakage around my catheter that my urologist says is due to bladder spasms. I have a special pill for that I take once a day called Xanthura, but to no noticeable effect so far.

And so, I’ve got all my pills, medical supplies and healthy food. Packed are my long sleeves, a new Aussie floppy hat, and sunscreen for protection. Also important– my laptop! I’ll have it with me, of course, but will also be able to use it in the van to watch movies along the way, thanks to an AC converter. I have I Love You Man and some documentaries. And I’ve got some mp3s loaded up, including the latest release from Iron and Wine– Around the Well.

Well, I’ve got to get up and get ready for the trip! I told Kasha I wanted to leave by 6:30am, even though I knew there was no chance of that. I figure we’ll be lucky to get out of here by 8am. Always last minute things to do for late preppers like us, and it’s especially true when you throw in my health issues.

If I find wi-fi en route to LA I’ll post another blog entry. In the meantime– thanks to everyone who’s helped make this trip possible!

Melissa, Mom, Scott, Vicky, Larry & Sheila, Boone families, Ruth & John, Dan…

(It takes a village or something, eh?)